5 Things I Love—and 5 Things I Don’t—About Barcelona

Choosing a Neighborhood in Barcelona

Barcelona Home Hunter

The BHH Journal · Life in Barcelona

An American’s perspective · Here since 2016

5 things I love about Barcelona. And 5 things I don’t.

I moved to Barcelona in 2016 because my partner received a job offer. Neither of us had visited Spain before. Bold choice. My circumstances changed, but I stayed.

The sea, the food and the old streets still make me glad I did. The noise, crowds and housing frustrations are part of living here too. Here’s my honest take on both.

Barcelona
Why I stayed Plenty to love. A few things I’d change.

What I love · 01 & 02

The simple pleasure of being outside.

People walking and sitting at café terraces on a tree-lined street in Poblenou

01 · The sunshine

I’m happier in the sun.

Having lived in different climates, I know this much about myself: warm, sunny weather makes me happier. Barcelona gives me plenty of reasons to get outside, even when there’s nothing particular on the agenda.

There are exceptions. August humidity can feel like a hot, wet blanket, and winter sometimes feels colder than the thermometer suggests. But the climate remains one of the reasons I enjoy living here.

02 · The Mediterranean

From the Arizona desert to a city by the sea.

I grew up in Arizona’s Sonoran Desert, so being near water has always appealed to me. Having the Mediterranean as part of my city still feels like a privilege.

I don’t go to the beach as often as I’d like. But knowing I can head down to the waterfront is part of what I love about Barcelona.

I don’t need to go every day to appreciate having it there.

How close to the sea would you live?

What I love · 03, 04 & 05

Good food, old streets and a city that celebrates.

Photograph from Frank’s original Barcelona food story
Finding the places worth going back to took a little practice.

03 · The food

I had to learn where to eat.

My first year of eating out in Barcelona was surprisingly disappointing. For a city with such a food reputation, I managed to find plenty of forgettable meals.

Things improved when I started asking people who lived here where they actually liked eating. Recommendations led me towards regional dishes I might otherwise have missed: escalivada, Galician mussels and gazpacho.

A good meal doesn’t need a spectacular setting, and a busy terrace doesn’t guarantee a good kitchen.

Ask someone where they would take a friend for dinner.

The old city

Streets worth getting lost in.

The old city still makes Barcelona feel special to me. I love wandering through its narrow streets and finding a quiet corner away from the busiest routes.

I enjoy it most when the crowds ease off and there’s room to slow down. Visiting a neighbourhood and living in it are different decisions—but I’m glad these streets are part of my city.

Explore the neighbourhood guide

La Mercè

My favourite kind of city-wide chaos.

La Mercè is one of my favourite things about living here. The human towers, the giants and the celebrations give me a very different experience of Barcelona from an ordinary working week.

My favourite is the correfoc—the fire run. It reminds me why I wanted to experience life somewhere different in the first place.

Explore the official La Mercè website

What I don’t love · 01–03

The things you notice when you live here.

A holiday and an ordinary Tuesday are different experiences. I still love Barcelona, but these are some of the everyday frustrations that come with it.

Loving a city doesn’t mean loving every part of it.

The crowds.

I understand why people want to visit—I wanted to live here. But the busiest streets can become exhausting when you’re simply trying to go about your day. I enjoy the old city much more when there’s room to wander without constantly weaving around groups.

For a home search: visit the actual street at different times. A neighbourhood’s reputation won’t tell you how busy your front door will be.

The noise—especially sirens.

Ambulance sirens are a particular irritation of mine. I know the vehicles need to get through, but the sound can cut straight into whatever you’re doing. Noise is one of those details that matters much more when a street becomes your everyday address.

During a viewing: listen in the bedroom with the windows open and closed. Don’t judge the apartment on photographs alone.

Planning around opening hours.

Coming from the US, I found shopping hours an adjustment. I’ve had to get used to checking whether somewhere will be open rather than assuming I can pop in whenever it suits me. It’s manageable, but it still catches me out.

A small habit that helps: check the individual shop’s hours, especially around Sundays, public holidays and holiday closures.

A sure sign of Shit food. OK Paella - Straight from the freezer. I promise it is not OK.

5 Things I Love About Barcelona, and 5 Things I Don’t 2024

What I don’t love · 04 & 05

Two things I’d like Barcelona to do better.

Finding a home

Loving the city shouldn’t mean struggling to stay.

Housing is my biggest concern on this list. Working with people searching for homes, I see how frustrating it can be when their budget, needs and available properties simply don’t line up.

In my experience, the rental search has become particularly difficult. It affects people arriving in Barcelona and people who already call it home. I don’t want to sell anyone a version of life here that skips over that reality.

I’d like to see more homes built, stronger incentives to add supply and a lasting commitment to affordable housing.

Understand my rental-search service

Room to breathe

More gardens. More shade. Somewhere to throw a Frisbee.

I wish there were more generous green spaces woven into the centre of Barcelona. I appreciate the tree-lined streets, but I also want places to sit under trees, stretch out on grass and spend an afternoon outside.

When I lived in Beijing, I paid attention to the gardens and open space around developments. That experience shaped what I notice here: how much usable greenery remains between the buildings.

My ideal is more housing alongside protected, well-maintained green space. Both belong in the plan.

Find a neighbourhood that fits your priorities

Why I’m still here

Would I choose Barcelona again? Yes—with my eyes open.

I stayed because the things I enjoy here matter to me: the sea, the sunshine, the food and the pleasure of wandering through the old city. The frustrations haven’t erased those reasons.

But I wouldn’t tell someone to move here on the strength of a lovely holiday alone. Finding a home, managing a budget and settling into an ordinary routine deserve just as much attention.

My advice is to spend time in the neighbourhoods you could realistically live in. Walk the streets, listen to the noise and try your everyday journeys. See whether you enjoy the Barcelona that would actually become yours.

Frank Rodgers

Frank Rodgers

Barcelona Home Hunter
Living in Barcelona since 2016

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